I'm going to try out sewing with knits. I'm planning on starting by doing a sew-a-long with my friend. She has this vouge pattern (v8670). I'm going to make view B, and shorten the lenght, so it is similar to a favorite lightweight sweatshirt I own. I ordered this Stretch Ponte.
I also ordered some interlock knit in this Charley Harper Cardinal print. My favorite thing to wear as of late are easy knit dresses, so I'm planning on sewing it up into the Colette Monetta with 1/2 sleeves.
I did a wee bit of christmas knitting this year. These sock were given to my sister, who really appreciates the hand knit socks. I don't use a pattern but i like to credit the Yarn Harlot's sock recipe. Because that is the pattern I used when learning to knit socks, and now the method that I continue to use.
On a whim, I added a little rib detail at the cuff. My sister was pleased with them, but after wearing them for a day, said that they didn't fit as well as socks I made her in the past. I think that they are a little loose in circumference. These are 64-stitch socks, and I think going forward I'll make 60-stitch socks for her, and do the ribbing down the full length of the cuff, so that they are fit more snugly.
Let's take a break from talking about sewing men's shirts and dream about post-holiday sewing possibilities.
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+ possibility one: vintage McCall 8330, c.1951.
I like this pattern for its unique construction of the front yoke, waist pleats, and kimono sleeves.
I made this muslin some time ago. The pattern worked up really nicely, but it is too big in the shoulders. This is a common problem that I have with fitting, and I don't really know how to resolve it. It is a fit problem that I also have with ready to wear. If I take it up at the shoulder the arm holes become shallow. I've made this alteration in the past, and it works out okay. In this case I may need to draft a new facing for the neckline. Shoulder pads should help as well.
The muslin fabric came from the East Bay Depot for Creative Reuse. And that this was my first attempt at sewing button holes. My intention was that it could be a wearable muslin, and if i make an adjustment to the fit of the shoulders, I think it could be.
In any case, I have a cotton voile with geometric bee print that i'd like to make it up in.
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+ Possibility two: vintage simplicity 4987, c.1944.
I'm thinking I would like to make up view #3, minus the pocket, in this feather print cotton voile from the Anna Maria Horner's field study line.
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+ Possibility three: Peter Pan Blouse, Gertie's New Book For Better Sewing
Or perhaps the Portrait Blouse from the same book. I have an affinity for blouses that button down the back, so I'm leaning toward the Peter Pan Blouse. Either way, I have this gray polka dot silk that would be sweet made up with either pattern.
note: the eyeball shirt is done! and it looks great on peter. I'll put together a final post about it soonsies.
Is it just me, or is anyone else feeling December slip through their fingers in a way that makes their breathing a little tight? Despite my self imposed crafting stress, I'm really enjoying sewing this shirt, and am really looking forward to making more tailored/fitted garments for myself, and if all goes well, sewing this pattern again, for Peter.
I got the sleeves sewn on last night, as I planned to. So I'm on schedual—a very tight schedule. I was most nervous about the sleeves but they came together with very little trouble, and the flat felled seams are as charming as could be. I don't have pictures, but just imagine the same shirt with sleeves on, and the sides sewn up. I decided on the short sleeves for a few reasons. The first was time. The second was that I didn't want to stress myself out with learning something brand new (sleeve plackets) on a deadline. This is supposed to be fun after all, right?
Let's talk buttons.
I was planning on mixing it up, with red or black buttons and/or using a contrast thread for the button holes. Peter likes little details like that, and so do I. However I didn't want to over design. Ya know? Then, a few weeks ago, I came across the above Japanese craft book on sewing men's shirts. (you can read a review here). The cover photo was exactly what I had in mind. I think that they look great. Onward!
When I last left you last dear readers, these were my goals.
+ ASSEMBLE COLLAR AND FACING
+ SEW FRONT FACING
+ SEW SHIRT BACK
+ ATTACH COLLAR AND LOOP
+ ATTACH INSIDE YOKE
Done. Done. Done. Done. Done.
I was axious to finally sit down at the machine and get sewing. Its very satisfying to see it all coming together. I screwed up one of my back pleats when I sewed the in the inner yoke. Otherwise it is all going very smoothly, and I haven't needed to look up any tutorials. The pattern directions are super clear, and easy enough to follow. Reading the Male Pattern Boldness Sewalong, in preparation has been extraordinarily helpful. I've also watched a lot of tutorials on youtube, while I was waiting for the fabric to come, I was expecting I might need to go back and re-watch some, but I've found so far that it isn't necacarry.
I'm feeling the time crunch on this now. What I may not have mentioned is that in order to keep this under-wraps from it's recipient, I can't work on it on the weekends, leaving me only weeknight evenings, which we all know can be pretty full with activities like cooking dinner, walking the dog and sleeping, blah blah.
Did I mention that Peter and I are exchanging gifts early, on the 19th? That's the way it has to be since we spend the holidays with our families in separate cities. If I sew every night this week, I can have it done with one evening to spare. Why do I make self imposed crafting deadlines?
My additional fabric came over the weekend and I was able to pre-wash it without Peter getting a peek. Tomorrow, I'll sew the sleeves on, and side seams. Leaving just the buttonholes, buttons, and hem for the last night of sewing. Absolutely doable.
This photo gives away my dirty little secret that i work on the floor, no ironing board or work table for me! I also had a glass of wine close at hand, which I don't actually recommend. Sewing mistakes can't be undone as easily as knitting mistakes can. I've finally got around to cutting out my fabric. I picked out a striped italian cotton to use as a contrast fabric for the under collar, and inside yoke.
I found that I was short on eyeball fabric. Seams I ordered only two yards when I intended to get three. I couldn't squeeze what I needed from just two yards—even making the short sleeve version, and cutting some of the pieces in contrast fabric—so I bit the bullet and ordered more fabric from spoonflower. I paid for a rush job and it shipped today. phew.
After reading about the possible head ache that interfacing could cause, I was more then a little bit nervous. I bought a high quality, light weight fusible interfacing at Piedmont Fabric and I used this video to help with the fusible interfacing. There were a few hick-ups but it went as smoothly as I could have hoped.
I won't have an opportunity to turn on my sewing machine until sunday night. My next goals are:
+ ASSEMBLE COLLAR AND FACING
+ SEW FRONT FACING
+ SEW SHIRT BACK
+ ATTACH COLLAR AND LOOP
+ ATTACH FACING/YOKE
That is a lot of sewing, and I'm looking forward to finally sitting down at the machine. I'm a feeling a bit of stress to get this done in time, but it still feels doable. I hope your holiday crafting is going more smoothly then mine, or that you have given up and let consumerism solve your problems.
When I went to order my Colette Negroni pattern, they were sold out. I was a little bummed because I had only heard good things about how lovely the design is. But I quickly got over it and bought the PDF. "I'm saving money!" "Instant gratification!" I thought. I wasn't too worried about the extra work of taping the thing together b/c I've done it before when I sewed a retro bikini using this Burda Style pattern.
Um. I over looked how much smaller a pair of ladies swim bottoms are in comparison to a mans shirt. The taping together took the better part of an industrious evening. Leaving me to cut out the individual pieces the following evening. Then it all sat around for two weeks while I waited for my fabric order.
Tracing patterns is possibly my least favorite part of the sewing process, and I can't bring myself to cut the original tissues, because, omg! i might want to sew it again in another size! Wait. That never happens. I don't know if given the choice, I'll choose the PDF again, and if I do, I think I'd go ahead and have it printed on one large sheet at the copy shop.
Next step. Cut into that fabric!
+ Inspiration
A while back, I was struck by KENZO's minds eye, collection. That sweater tho!
(lots more fun pieces on pinterest)
I showed Peter, and he was pretty taken himself, and he asked me for diy ideas for recreating a shirt. "I can do tha't" I thought.
I designed some fabric, bought a men's shirt pattern, and started watching you tube videos.
+ Pattern
For the pattern I choose, colette's negroni. I wanted a modern slim fit, and I found that there are tons of sewers who have made it up. Not only was I able to get a clear idea of what I might expect, I figure that I will be able to get lots tips from blogs. Mainly, I found that Peter (different Peter) over at Male Pattern Boldness used it for a men's shirt sew along, where he has chronicled the steps by step construction. Wonderful!
I plan on making the long sleeve version with no pockets. Plan-B is to make a short sleeve shirt if I cant manage the sleeve plackets. (wish me luck!). Since ordering this pattern, I've read a bit more about men's shirt construction, and have realized that this is a "camp shirt" meaning that it doesn't have a collar stand. Probably not what I would have picked had I known, but I think I can make the most of it.
+ Fabric
I designed an eyeball pattern in Illustrator and had it printed up at spoonflower. I choose the cotton poplin, and so far I'm happy with the results. The image is nice and crisp and holds detail. The black isn't as saturated as I would like, but it is as good as I expected.
I may have ben a bit ambitious.
It has been a while. I miss this space, a space to keep a log of projects and best laid plans. So on with it!
My spice rack was a hot mess, and is as good of place as any to get started.
Ugg. I can't believe I've been getting on like this. A solution has been on my to-do list for what must be ages, I finally decided to execute it. I printed up simple labels with the laser printer on plain paper—nothing fancy. I cut them out by hand, and affixed them to the bottles with rubber cement. All of the bottles are re-purposed from trader-joes with the labels removed. The shelves are picture rails from Ikea, that I put up not long after I moved in (November 2009).
You may have noticed i need to go to the spice shop. That is what spurred this on, I'm hosting thanksgiving next week, and was having a hell of a time making a shopping list. You may have also noticed that sad faded Nikki McClure print. Yup. It's been going down hill for a while now, but I've been hesitant to replace it b/c anything else I hang there is going to die the same sunshiny death. It is covering my electrical switchboard or I would just take it down (that also explains the awkward placement).
Looking at that photo from 2010, really makes me want to get it together, the red was so lovely and vibrant. I threw in a photo from right after moving in, for good measure. You can see the horrible ugly electrical switch box.
One of my friends made a new years resolution to plan a hike or camping trip each month in 2012. Such a good resolution no? I didn't hesitate to join in.
Our first hike was down at point lobos. It was a bit of an adventure getting there, due too some bad directions, and we ended up eating our picknic in the car. But once we were there, we enjoyed stunning views, hidden beaches and some beautifully unique rock formations.
How about you, how are your new year resolutions coming along?
I am vanessa, originally from the northwest, I am a graphic designer making my life in Oakland with my fluffy dog carlton.
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